Belarus Trip Report - Spring Birdwatching 2008,

14/05/08 to 25/05/08.

Tour Party

Hans Wulfsberg (Denmark)

Rob Skinner (UK)

Pavel Simeonov (Branta-Tours)

Dima Shamovich (based Krasny Bor)

May 14
Direct flight from Gatwick to Minsk with Belavia Airline to meet with Pavel, our knowledgeable tour-leader & Hans who were then joined by Natasha, interpreter from Pripyatski National Park & Sergey, our driver for the first part of our trip. Our long journey south from Minsk to Doroshevichy was frequently punctuated with birding breaks whenever anything of interest was seen. Marsh, Hen & Montagu's Harriers were early on the scene & these were soon followed by Curlew, Common Buzzard & White Stork. By the time we reached our destination at dusk, 30 species had been logged including our first Thrush Nightingale.
The timber lodge @ Doroshevichy was very comfortable and the food appetising & plentiful. The long day & a vodka or more ensured that everybody slept soundly.

May 15
Up at the crack of dawn to explore the area around the hotel which is situated on the north bank of the Prypiat River. The early mist soon cleared to leave a warm & bright morning.
Beautiful landscape & birds galore. An early lunch was taken whilst birding.
Wryneck, Kingfisher, Common & Terek Sandpipers were the earliest birds followed closely by Gadwall, Garganey & Goldeneye. As the visibility improved, the far side of the river came into view as did Whiskered , Common & White-winged Terns and a stunning White-tailed Eagle. Meanwhile, Golden Orioles, Thrush Nightingales, Hoopoes & Cuckoos were leading a very lively dawn chorus. In all, 46 species were seen or heard prior to breakfast.
After an excellent meal, we boarded a small motorboat to spend the morning exploring the river & its surrounding flood plain. Whinchat, Scarlet Rosefinch , Black Tern & Hobby were all seen well as were Honey Buzzards & both Middle-spotted & White-backed Woodpeckers.
The star turn of the morning was unquestionably an Azure Tit. Small but what a bird! As a complete contrast, a Great Spotted Eagle soon followed in addition to Red-backed Shrike & both Spotted & Pied Flycatchers.
Lunch @ the lodge after which we kept one eye wide open for mammals and were rewarded with Wild Boar, Red & Roe Deer & Hare. Finally, the four-footed beast of the day was seen spied... beaver. The surrounding area was littered with felled trees & clouds of mosquitoes but nothing could prevent Hans & Sergey from braving the munching millions to get close views of the beaver.

Raven, Tree Sparrow, Wood Warbler & two more Woodpeckers were added to the tally....Black & Great-spotted.
Day total 82. Cumulative 91

2nd night @ Doroshevichy Lodge.

May 16
Another glorious dawn. Pre-breakfast walk around the lodge yielded Marsh Sandpiper plus Marsh &Willow Warblers.
Bags packed & on the road but at a leisurely pace towards Turov. Frequent stops in farming country with many raptor sightings including Lesser Spotted & White-tailed Eagles, Black Kite, Marsh & Montagu's Harriers.
A detour to a heavily reeded area bounded by willows yielded Bluethroat, Willow Tit, Penduline Tit & Yellowhammer.
Picnic lunch overlooking Turov meadows watching Ruff, Redshank, Black-necked Grebe, Great Egret, Black-tailed Godwit, & Marsh Terns galore. A tour around the meadows produced a pair of Azure Tits, Black Stork & a brazen River Warbler in full song.
Towards dusk, we took a small boat into the heart of the meadows & were able to see Temmincks Stint & displaying Great Snipes.
After dark arrival @ Chlupinskaja Buda for 2 nights.
Day total 83. Cumulative 99

May 17
Pre-breakfast walk around lodge. Weather bright & dry. No breeze. Black Redstart, Swift, Garden Warbler, Black Stork & Corncrakes(heard) were the highlights.
After another substantial breakfast, we were off to the woods in search of owls. Great Grey Owl was seen well & many other woodland species including Collared, Spotted & Pied Flycatchers, Hawfinch, Middle-spotted Woodpecker & Wood Warbler.
En route we were again to view the flood plain where we saw the usual Gull & Tern species plus a good variety of common thrushes, corvides, waders & warblers. Back to Chlupinskaja Buda, unusually, before dusk but not before adding Serin & Long-eared Owl to our tally.
Day total 75 Cumulative 120

May 18
Pre breakfast walk in the now customary fine weather...
2 Elk... 3 Corncrake... Black Stork... Barred Warbler... Turtle Dove... Middle-spotted Woodpecker... Red-footed Falcon (one male)... Golden Oriole... Hoopoe... Long-tailed Tit (White Headed race) & full supporting cast.
Left our lodge after breakfast & spent the majority of the day around the Turov meadows. A last opportunity to see Azure Tit proved irresistible.
Icterine Warbler & Grey Partridge were firsts & White-tailed Eagle, Sedge Warbler, Yellow Wagtail, Bluethroat, Terek Sandpiper & numerous wildfowl delivered encores.
As the day wore on, the cloud increased & we slowly made our way to the north of Minsk where we bid farewell to Sergey who had served us well.
Greeted By Dima who was to be our guide for the remainder of our stay in Belarus.

Arrived at Domzheritzy hotel in Berezinsky Biosphere Reserve around dusk for a single night stay. Quick view on Pine Martin crossing our route before diner.

Weather well & truly overcast.
Rooms large with good facilities. Generous supply of good quality food. Large hotel probably 90% empty.
Day total 70. Cumulative 130

May 19
Pre breakfast walk in Berezinsky forest in overcast conditions and light rain produced Hazel Grouse together with Black, White-backed & Great-spotted Woodpeckers, Treecreeper, Woodlark & Raven.
After breakfast, we were introduced to our first Bog & to Yuri, a guide on the Reserve. No amount of bog-trotting enabled us to find our main target but we succeeded with Wood Sandpiper, Whimbrel & Greenshank.
Further exploration of the Reserve away from the bog enabled us to see Grey-headed Woodpecker, Black-throated Diver, Osprey & Scarlet Rosefinch & to hear a Bittern booming.
By late afternoon, we were again on the road & heading north. En route we encountered a Lesser Spotted Eagle & our first Short-toed Eagle in addition to many corvids & thrushes. A ten minute stop by a roadside lake enabled us to hear Savi's Warbler & Great Reed Warbler
Arrived @ Klyasticy lodge after dark to a warm welcome & a hot meal. After the usual vodka accompaniment we again slept soundly, if briefly.
Day total: 70 Cumulative: 147

May 20
Astonishingly, at 3.30am our party was seated around the dining table whilst eating a hot breakfast! Such is the lure of the Capercaillie.
Krasny Bor is full of bogs, lakes & forests & during the day we experienced each of these habitats & saw a good variety of birds including some firsts for the trip:- 3-toed Woodpecker, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Nightjar, Golden Plover, Common Gull, Black Grouse, Goldcrest & Crested Tit.
To replenish the batteries after our early start, we had a 3 hour break @ midday. When we resurfaced, the morning showers had gone & been replaced by sunshine.
Once more into the woods & we were rewarded with Nutcracker, Crossbill, Woodcock & Ural Owl.
2nd night @ Klyasticy lodge.
Day total: 57 Cumulative: 158

Next ->

May21
Breakfasted @ a sensible hour & then embarked on a long drive to search for Great Grey Owl. Unfortunately, a Pine Marten had arrived before us & predated the contents of the nest. En route, there was no shortage of the now regular species & in addition, we saw Lesser Whitethroat, Sparrowhawk & Pintail.
As the day wore on, the early showers slowly cleared to leave a fine, still evening. Dima embarked on a whistle-stop tour of some local hot spots for mammals & we had excellent views of a grazing party of Wild Boar & several Elk.
At dusk & into the forest where Dima and Pavel used their skills to attempt to attract the resident owls. Perseverance paid off after the best part of an hour & for 15 minutes we were entertained to an amazing interaction between man & Pygmy Owl. What an experience!
3rd night @ Klyasticy lodge.
Day total: 46 Cumulative: 161

May22
Took another opportunity to view 3-toed Woodpecker @ its nest & also had good views of Short-toed Eagle & Honey Buzzard.
An hour was spent around Yailata, an excellent archaeological reserve We then visited Dima's house (Log cabin construction common throughout Belarus) @ nearby Sosny Bor where we took a stroll with his wolves, as you do!
Three lakes in quick succession. At Lake Stradno we saw Whooper Swan & Teal, @ L. Buzjanka Gadwall & Common Crane in flight & @ L. Lisno Black Grouse.
A visit to Bolshoi Moh, the largest of the pine bogs, failed to produce the anticipated Golden Eagle but Great Grey Shrike & Goshawk were ample compensation.
A late evening search for Tengmalm's Owl was ruined by the poor weather.
4th night @ Klyasticy lodge.
Day total 67 Cumulative 165

May23
Another excellent breakfast before making our way to Osveya Lake, the second largest in Belarus & with a fresh breeze blowing, looking more like the sea. The weather prevented us from traversing the lake but we managed an exhilarating boat trip through the Black-headed gull colony on the edge. Wildfowl included small numbers of Wigeon, Northern Shoveler, Pochard & Tufted Duck.
At Novy Dvor, a Grasshopper Warbler put on a fine show with a Concrake in support. Three more lakes were briefly visited where we encountered Bittern, Savi's Warbler Gargeny & White-tailed Eagle in particular.
The weather for the journey south to Berezinsky Reserve was overcast & showery & then it got worse. However, we still managed to make several stops on the journey & were able to see/hear Savi's, Sedge & Great Reed Warblers together with Reed Bunting, Cuckoo, White Stork , Hooded Crow & Raven.
Overnight @ Domzhericy hotel in Berezinsky Biosphere Reserve.
Day total 60 Cumulative 168

May 24
Pre breakfast trip to local lake in heavy rain produced close view of White-backed Woodpecker.
Breakfast.
Post breakfast trip to Berezinsky forest in heavy rain.
Despite the conditions, we managed to see a nice variety of birds; thanks to the endeavours of Pavel, Dima & Yuri. Pick of the bunch were Great Grey Owl, Pied Flycatcher, Black Woodpecker & Wood Warbler.
For the record, two bears were seen by our intrepid guides & an outcrop of Lady's Slipper Orchid by all.
An afternoon visit to the forest in even worse weather yielded nothing new.
Overnight @ Domzhericy hotel in Berezinsky Biosphere Reserve.
Day total 34 Cumulative 168

May 25
With flight departure times spread throughout the day, an early start was needed. An hour of birdwatching in the vicinity of Minsk Airport produced the first Blyth's Reed Warbler.
Day total 18, Cumulative 168
Return Flight to London.

General Comments:
Accommodation throughout was varied but always acceptable. Inevitably, a rural village will offer a different style of lodging from a major tourist area. In this instance, the level of hospitality & standard of food provided by Svetlana @ Klyasticy rural lodging easily compensated for the intermittent supply of hot water.

Food:
Never a problem. The range, quality, quantity & presentation at every meal was most acceptable.

General:
Once away from Minsk, obtaining local currency can be a problem. Not that there is much need for the local currency.
Apart from a handful of uniformed officials @ Minsk Airport, the population were universally friendly.

Species List
The list represents what I saw/heard during my stay in Belarus. Others on the tour will have a slightly different list but as we were a small group, most sightings were witnessed by us all.
The weather during the last few days of the trip was very poor & put some hoped for species beyond reach but overall, I was extremely happy with the range of birds that we were able to see and the quality of services offered by Branta-Tours.

Rob Skinner, UK

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Voyage naturaliste en Biélorussie

du 08 au 22 mai 2009:

Rapport de voyage

Lieux:

Réserve de Krasny Bor au Nord du pays, Réserve de Biosphère de Berezinski située au centre, Réserve de Sporovo à l'extrême SW, région du Parc National de Pripyatski située au Sud du pays.

Participants:

Jean-Michel LOGEAIS, Gil VAILLANT, Hugo VAILLANT, Bernard TILLY, Alain BAJAN-BANASZAK, Monique LEPAGE veuve BAZELIS, Jean-Paul ROUX, David BISMUTH, Michel CHARRIER.

Guide: Pavel Simeonov (Branta-Tours)

Préambule:

Abstract:

Rapport complet du voyage sur Ornithomedia.com

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Belarus - Berezinsky Biosphere Reserve

Presentation of Belarus and Berezinsky reserve:

Berezinsky Biosphere reserve is located in the north-east of Belarus, not far from its capital city of Minsk. It was established in 1925 to protect a remnant population of Beavers, achieving World Biosphere Reserve in 1979. In 1995 the site received the Council of Europe's Diploma Forest cover, including many primeval stands, extends over 80% of the area. There are 7 big lakes and 69 rivers, the most significant and historically famous of which is the Berezina, located at the watershed of an ancient water system linking The Black and the Baltic Sea, plus all types of marshes and bogs.
Brown Bear, Wolf and Lynx are representatives of the major carnivores; Raccoon Dog and Pine Marten are among smaller predators. European Bison, Beaver, Elk and Wild Boar are also well represented and will be searched for during our pre-dawn or night-time outings with powerful spotlight.

The reserve homes 230 bird species of which 180 are breeding. Birdlife includes particularly good representations of woodpeckers, including White-Backed and Three-toed. The high proportion of forests provides an abundance of bird species, such as Black and Hazel grouses, Capercaillie, Woodcock, and Wood pigeon. Breeding raptors include Montagu's harrier, Osprey, White-tailed, Short-toed, Greater spotted and Lesser spotted Eagles as well as Ural, Little, Eagle and Tengmalm's owls. Great Gray Owl is one of the rarest bird species of the reserve. Wetlands and lakes contain large numbers of waterfowl and water-side birds. Spotted crake and the globally threatened Corncrake are common on breeding here. A substantial breeding population of the Bittern has also been recorded. Nutcraker, a typical Taiga species, can be encountered in spruce forests along the boundaries of the mire. In autumn and spring the mire serves a long-term resting ground for ten of thousands of geese and other migrating species. We focus also on small passerines like Yellow-headed Wagtail, Crested Tit, Scarlet Rosefinch, Redwing, Thrush nightingale, Barred, Grasshopper, Aquatic and warblers and many other interesting species.

Presentation of the lodges and huts available in Berezinsky Reserve

Telitzin Doub - it can accommodate about 6 people. Lodge on lake Domzjeritzkoe - it can accommodate about 6/8 people. Lodge on lake Olshitza - 6/8 people could be accommodated. Birding lodge in Nivki - 11/12 people, sauna available. Uviazok - a lodge in the core area of the reserve that can accommodate about 12 people. It was recently restored and arranged. Superb Presidential dacha on lake Plavno with all high-level conveniences Ten-twelve people can be easily accommodated.

Pre-tour information

Leadership
Pavel Simeonov leads all tours personally. He is one of the Swarovski Recommended Bird Guides. Being actively involved with conservation programmes at national and international level Pavel is able to provide a wealth of background information on wildlife matters, and indeed on cultural topics. He has conducted numerous trips as a bird-guide and leader in Bulgaria and Belarus.

Accommodation

We provide comfortable accommodation for individuals or small groups at :

*** DOMZJERITZY HOTEL is a highly attractive and recently restored establishment overlooking the Reserve, with all high-level conveniences, 12 en suite twin-bedded rooms complete with TV.
25 people can be easily accommodated there.

Price includes:
Accommodation
B & B in twin rooms;
Seven nights dinner;
Packed lunches except for days 1 and 8
Drinks: mineral water, fizzy drinks including Coca Cola, tea/coffee
Transportation by 7 or 14-seater minibus and 4WD vehicles;
All excursions plus transfers in Belarus;
Guidance;

Price excludes:
Lunch on days 1 & 8;
Alcoholic drinks and tips;
Transport to and from Belarus;
Single room supplements (Euro 50)

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Belarus - Berezinsky Biosphere Reserve

Presentation of itineraries

Itinerary one: September , April

Day 1 Arrival to Minsk airport, transfer by bus to Berezinsky Biosphere reserve, welcome and presentation of the site, visit to the Natural Museum and the village of Domzheritsy. Accommodation at Domzjeritzy.

Day 2 In the morning watching migration and foraging of Bean and White-fronted Geese, Black Grouse (lekking), Goshawk, Nutcracker, Lapwing at Uskromje (abandoned hamlet) on the western boundary of the reserve. In the afternoon bird watching (Great Crested Grebe, Grey Heron, Whopper Swan, Whigeon, Teal, Garganey, Shoveler, Goldeneye, Pochard, Scaup, Marsh Harrier, Osprey) on Lake Bereshcha in the hunting ground adjacent to the reserve.

Day 3 All day is spent in the Bison area in the south part of the reserve where we can observe tracks of Wolf and Brown Bear activities. Good chance to encounter Bluethroat, Great Grey Shrike and visit Great Grey Owl habitat where two pairs breed irregularly. You can also observe here Lesser Spotted Eagle, White-backed Woodpecker and Grey Crane.

Days 4-5 Boat trip on the Berezina River. We start from Zalazy to Telitsin Doub, stay overnight there in a wooden lodge and next day continue down to Lake Palik. We watch migrating waterfowl as well as Little Grebe, Grey Heron, Teal, Garganey, Goldeneye, Moorhen, Water Rail, Little Ringed Plover, Green Sandpiper, Wood and Common Sandpipers, Snipe, Little Gull, Black-headed Gull, Common Tern, Kingfisher, Grey Headed and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers, White Wagtail, Dunnock, Chiffchaff, Reed Bunting and Rough-legged Buzzard hovering in open areas over the river.

Day 6 -7 Visiting the core area of the reserve (primeval and old-aged forest, vast peatbog arrays and wetlands). Staying overnight in a wooden lodge at Uviazok; next morning we explore the site on foot. In the afternoon we cross the whole core area along a nature trail looking for Three-toed, White-backed, Middle Spotted and Black woodpeckers, Hazel Grouse, Ural Owl, Fieldfare, Redwing, Mistle Thrush, Willow and Crested Tits, Tree creeper, Scarlet Rosefinch.

Day 8 Departure from Berezinsky to Minsk airport by bus.

* All pictures of birds and mammals, except Scaup, were provided by Igor Byshniov

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Belarus - Berezinsky Biosphere Reserve

Presentation of itineraries

Itinerary two: April, May

Day 1 Arrival to Minsk airport, transfer by bus to Berezinsky Biosphere reserve, welcome and presentation of the site. Accommodation at Domzheritzy Hotel. visit to the Natural Museum and the village of Domzheritzy.

Day 2 You will be introduced into the protected area visiting its most interesting wildlife habitats. In the evening you will enjoy friendly atmosphere at traditional barbecue on lakeside.

Day 3 Water route by the Berezina. We start from Zalazy to Telitsin Doub, stay overnight there in a wooden lodge watching migratory birds on the river flood-plain. Next morning we visit an island in the vicinity called Lubnitskoe to watch Elk.

Day 4 Early in the morning observation of Capercaille on its leks from hides or approaching singing birds. Walking back through Badgers habitats we have good chances to encounter the animal. In the afternoon we walk across an intact peatbog watching waders: Black Grouse, Crane, Curlew, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper, Snipe, Black-tailed Godwit, Golden Plover, etc.

Day 5 At the dawn we come to hides at Black Grouse lekking area to watch displaying birds. In the afternoon we have an excursion by minibus into areas where Wolves have been recently recorded, studying their tracks of activities. Later on in the evening we cross the core area using spotlights to enhance possibilities of sighting Elk, Wild Boar, Broun Bear, Red Fox, Racoon Dog, Pine Martin and other mammals.

Day 6 We visit the southern part of the reserve that provides us with an opportunity to watch European Bison in the wild state. Descending down to the Berezina we visit a historical place of Napoleon army crossing the river in 1812. There we have good chances to observe birds-of-prey, White and Black Storks foraging on the flood-plain.

Day 7 Water route by Lake Bereshcha. You can enjoy watching fishing Ospreys, observe natural breeding grounds of Mute Swans. Plenty of Duck, Gull and Tern species, Herons can be easily watched. Good chances to notice White-tailed or Spotted Eagles soaring high up in the sky, Marsh Harrier. In the afternoon we visit a Black Stork habitat observing birds at their nest. At dusk we go to watch Beavers in their natural habitats.

Day 8 Departure from Berezinsky to Minsk airport by bus.

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